Welcome Back Cotter

Listening to "Hotel California (Spanish Mix)" by the Gipsy Kings

Shrouds - The major side stays of a mast.  (16th century) The term as used ashore came from the shipboard sense; the shrouds were heavily wrapped for their protection from the elements.  The derivation of the word is somewhat uncertain, but it is probably Old Norse, scruth, for wrapping.  -from Origins of Sea Terms by J.G. Rogers

Today was a productive day.  It started a bit late (I blame it on the festivities of the previous evening), but a lot has been accomplished.  We had hoped to spend the winter here in The Faroe Islands so that come spring we would be in an optimal position to sail to northern Norway.  This beautiful place has also seduced us with it's striking landscape, captivating history, amazing hiking and, most of all, the people.  We have met so many cool people here - some real friends - that we looked forward to spend the winter getting to know them better and hanging out.  

Unfortunately the word has come down from Denmark that our visa has not been extended.  (Though The Faroe Islands are autonomous, Denmark handles certain aspects of foreign affairs and defense, including visas.)   Technically we can stay until the first week in September, but with the fall storms starting to brew here in the north Atlantic we need to get out in the next week or two.  Last summer we stayed just a bit too long in Greenland and paid for our delay with tempestuous and storm-tossed seas for most of the sail to Iceland.  This is something we do not care to repeat.  

Now that we are preparing for our departure in earnest we are turning a sharp eye to every section of Paragon.  The diesel tanks have been filled,the oil has been changed, the staysail has been taken down to be stitched up (by hand...yay!), and every line, nut, bolt, and cotter pin is being checked.  

I will be the first to say that checking the whole rig kind of sucks.  It's uncomfortable and somewhat tedious.  Seriously, I'm hanging upside down off the bowsprit checking the bobstay, climbing around the mast and boom, and closely inspecting every single attachment point and piece of hardware for cracks and loose fittings.  This, however, is probably one of the simplest things that can be done to prevent disaster from striking.

While I was fitting a lock-washer onto a loose bolt on the bowsprit, I heard Drake gasp as he called me over.  See if you can find anything missing on this turnbuckle.

Need some help?  Here is her sister.

That's right.  The cotter pin is missing entirely from the top of this turnbuckle.  The only reason it was not able to turn, and possibly loosen the wire on this shroud, is because the cotter pin on the bottom bolt was still intact.  (For those unfamiliar with a turnbuckle, it is a piece of hardware that regulates the tension on the wires attached to the mast.  These wires, called shrouds and stays, support the mast and keep it from tumbling down.)

Such a simple thing to replace now as we sit in a protected harbour, but if missed the consequences could be catastrophic.  It makes me wonder what else is missing so, with renewed vigour, I continue my inspection of Paragon.  Let's hope there aren't any more surprises!

There be gods here

Listening to "Walking On A Dream" by Empire Of The Sun

The voyage has stopped...at least for the moment.  Drake and I find ourselves in Reykjavík, Iceland where we will *possibly* be staying for the winter.  The first two weeks here were tumultuous to say the least.  We had planned for Iceland to be a pit stop on our way to Ireland and, therefore, were poised to take off as soon as the first weather window presented itself.  The first couple of days everyone was simply recovering from the beating we received on the journey over from Greenland.  Fierce winds and big seas plagued us, and making landfall had never been so sweet. 

Stormy days

However, as the days passed with no good window in sight, we began to wonder if we had simply stayed north a bit too long.  When does a risk become too risky?  One afternoon we suddenly realized that we were talking about sailing off into the remnants of a hurricane...and stopped.  We unclenched our guts and admitted that leaving Iceland at this particular time of year meant sailing off into weather that posed an unacceptable risk to us.  How many people tried to keep to a schedule and ended up instead courting disaster?  So, despite our best intentions of reaching Ireland this year, we have decided to stay in Iceland.  

We have moved from Brokey yacht club where we first landed and are now staying in an extremely protected corner of the Reykjavík harbour just off of the maritime museum.  Besides being in a spot that is extremely sheltered we also have an auspicious neighbour, the Coast Guard Vessel Óðinn.  It was involved in all three of the Cod Wars with Britain, towed almost 200 ships to safety, and is credited with saving countless crews from sinking or grounded ships.  Every day we look out and see its magnificent hull to our port side.

Our neighbour Ódinn

We've also begun to explore our new neighbourhood.  Just down the street, to our initial delight (and my thighs horror), is an amazing homemade ice cream shop.  Within walking distance of Paragon.  And open late.  Every. single. night.  (this could be bad…)

The library with free, if slow, wifi is ten minutes away, as are numerous grocery stores.  A wonderful internet cafe, with fresh baked bread and FAST wifi, is five minutes away.  I've also discovered the coolest resale/antique store ever which may occupy many a rainy afternoon.

The library

Frida Frænka Antiques

There are more galleries than I could explore in a year, not to mention amazing street art and sculptures.  

Things are not completely settled here.  Drake and I will be heading over to Immigration on Monday to see if we are able to extend our initial entry visa and stay the winter.  We are hoping they will understand that we intended to leave, but were waylaid by the weather.  We have no intention of becoming one of those cautionary tales you read so often on the forums or various news channels.  Could we have left and made it to Ireland?  Perhaps yes, but the alternative was not a risk we were willing to take.  I'd rather live to tell the tale...

So now I sit in a cafe, pet the dog who has meandered over (this is one of the reasons I LOVE Europe!!!), and look forward to exploring my new home.  

Home for now and ready to explore!

p.s.  While we were traveling in Greenland I was having a lot of trouble gaining access to my blog.  I have a back log of posts that I will begin to upload, but I will most likely mix in more recent posts from Reykjavík as well!